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The engine was now in the engine bay and all the boost pipes were done. There was one thing that I forgot about. It may be that it was lucky that I forgot about it as with the engine in the car and the drive shafts fitted if I could see what to do. The thing I forgot was the turbo drain pipe. This meant I had to strip the sump off the engine again. I was a bit sad to cut and weld on this sump as this was a brand new sump.
I measured out where the drainpipe should go on the sump and then cut a hole. Next, I bent up a 20-millimeter piece of pipe and welded that to the sump with a hose tail on the one side. After that, I cleaned and sprayed the sump again. The sump came out really well. I fitted the sump back on the engine and then connected the drainpipe on the sump to the drainpipe of the turbo with a 20 millimeter inside diameter silicone pipe. As there was a bit of heat in that area I didn’t want to take chances.
Control goodies.
I received a Boost control valve with the ECU and mounted the to the body of the car. Next was to find a spot for the ECU, the engine bay was just too full. I just could not find a home in the engine bay for the ECU. I took the glove compartment of the polo out on the dashboard. There was more than ample space for the ECU and there was n steel bracket that I could mount the ECU too.
Next was to find a grommet on the firewall that had enough space for the thick loom of wires that will be running from the ECU to the engine. I found a grommet that was big enough and made a hole in it. I bought a multi-core cable that I could use for the wires for the loom. All I needed to do is strip the cable down to get the wires out.
I wired up to each part individually in the engine bay and worked out the loom routing. Next, I pulled the loom through the grommet in the firewall. Now all the wires were nice and neat in the engine bay. I started connecting the wires one by one to the ECU Plug.
ECU is alive.
With everything being connected I could connect the battery of the car. I switched on the ignition and heard the fuel pump prime. That was a good sigh. Next, I plugged in the laptop and loaded the same map on the polo as the race car at work. I tried to start the car but it didn’t do a thing. I took one of the coil packs out and put a spark plug in it to do a spark test. There was a spark when the engine turned over but you could barely see it. I found out that the standard 20 valve coils weren’t direct fire coils and needed and extra module to work.
The coils we used at work on the Nissan engines were direct fire coils and they worked really well. I gave my boss a call asked if I could have a set of 4 of the coils of a blown V8. I got them from him and they were a perfect fit onto the 20 valve engine. After fitting the coils I tested the system with the fuel pump disconnected. I had a good spark. Next, I connected the fuel pump and turned the engine over. The engine started and died again. I looked at the laptop and found the issue. The cam sync function wasn’t set up properly.
Will the engine start and run?
The engine starts in wasted spark mode firing on one fire cylinder and one exhaust cylinder. The helps the engine to start quickly, once started it will look at the cap position and decide what cylinder to fire on. If the settings are wrong it will switch over to the exhaust cycle and the engine will stall. After correcting the value the engine started and ran nice and smooth. As the ECU had closed-loop lambda control I changed a setting that allowed the ECU to alter fueling with 20%. This meant even if the fuel map was out the ECU will correct the fueling using the reading from the lambda sensor.
Finally, the engine that I have worked so hard on was running.
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